The forthcoming international exhibition Vinaria in Plovdiv which is due to be held between April 2 and 5 had to include for the first time specialized competition of organic wines. Apparently this competition will be postponed until next year. The growers of organic wines were scalded by the news during the preparation process that the Bulgarian bio farmers are to receive zero subsidies from the EU in 2014. This type of farming is more expensive and less profitable as compared to the conventional one. That is why the subsidies in this sector are of such a great importance. One year without financial aid could force many farmers to abandon their projects linked with bio farming. The huge potential of Bulgaria in this sphere is a well known fact. However, the promises at this point are of bigger priority than the development of the bio farming itself.

Bulgaria is a country with ancient viticulture traditions and solid wine markets and it is to its interest to position permanently on the constantly expanding world market of organic wines. Europe is proud of this type of business. 85% of all organic vineyards are situated there. However, massifs with organic vines comprise of less than 10% of the total vine massifs in Europe. The organic sorts grow mainly in the Southern parts of the continent, where the mild climate favors their cultivation. It is hard to yield good crops in the Northern parts of Europe without the use of various chemicals and fertilizers. Italy is the No 1 European producer of organic wines. The vines in this country are cultivated over an area of 30 hectares, followed by France and Spain.

Bulgaria is also gaining momentum. The first organic vineyards were planted in 2007 when Bulgaria joined the EU, because the country was granted some EU subsidies. The first wines of these vineyards were tasted during the Vinaria 2010 international exhibition. The areas covered with organic vines are constantly expanding, said for Radio Bulgaria Albena Simeonova from the village of Liubenovo who is a pioneer in this business. In 2012, the organic vines in Bulgaria covered just over 500 hectares. However, another 1,500 hectares are being certified at present. The whole process lasts between three to five years. In other words, Bulgaria will have three times more organic vineyards in the next couple years.

“There are a total of five people who grow organic vines in Bulgaria. I am the only one who does organic viticulture in Northern Bulgaria. The other four viticulturists are in the Southern part of the country. The annual output of Bulgarian organic wine is around 400,000-500,000 liters”, says Albena Simeonova. “There is only one huge wine cellar. The rest of us are small winemakers who produce around 20,000-30,000 liters of organic wine. ”

Since no chemicals and fertilizers are used for the cultivation of the organic vines, it is of big importance to choose resistant local sorts. However, these sorts are not so popular on the international market. That is why a compromise between the local and the international sorts is made.

“We grow a wide range of sorts-from very resistant to very weak ones”, says Albena Simeonova. “Some of the most popular red sorts are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For instance, I grow a local red sort named Storgozia selected by the Bulgarian Institute of Viticulture and Enology. The most popular white sorts are Muscat Ottonel, Rcacitelli, Danube azure, Rizling, Chardonnay, etc. As far as I am aware, I am the only one in Bulgaria who makes organic rosé wine (amber wine). For the purpose, I use the Bulgarian sort Pamid which is perfect for the manufacture of rosé with a very saturated color.”

Currently there are many big wine cellars in Bulgaria which cultivate large areas of organic vineyards which are currently being in a process of certification. We are very likely to witness a sharp increase of the demand of such manufacture in the next few years. However, organic viticulture is currently on a crossroad, says Albena Simeonova and specifies:

“A European regulation is to ban the cultivation of both organic and conventional vine sorts in a single farm. This could make the big viticulturists abandon their ideas to deal with organic farming. In 2015 the farmers will have to decide whether to cultivate organic vines, or stay in the business of conventional viticulture.”

Over 90% of the Bulgarian organic wines are sold abroad, mainly in Western Europe. They often win awards at international contests such as the specialized exhibition of organic wines Millesime Bio 2014 in the French city of Montpellier. Recently the Orbelus wine won a gold medal at that exhibition. The demand of organic wines on the local market has been growing recently as well.. We hope that our wines will soon appear in the big retail chains, concludes Albena Simeonova.

English version: Kostadin Atanasov