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The enigma of the Bulgarian Desert

Mystery shrouds the rock phenomenon of the Stone Forest near Varna

Photo: visit.varna.bg

They delight the eye, grant wishes and heal. Thousands of rock pillars, large and small, resembling people, plants or strange animals, are scattered over a vast area of 50 square kilometres near the port city of Varna. Their origin is still not fully understood.

Some of the limestone structures are up to 7 metres high and 3 metres in diameter, while others are smaller. They have no solid foundations, most are completely hollow inside and are filled with sand. The individual formations have names that speak for themselves: the Camel, the Family, the Throne, the Mushroom... And because they seem to be stuck in the ground, the people called the whole area Pobitite Kamani (the planted stones) or the Stone Forest. 


The tubular columns are scattered in different clusters around the villages near Varna. The so-called "central group" has been developed for tourism and turned into an attractive open-air museum. According to the museum's curator, Stilyan Markov, this phenomenon is unique not only in Bulgaria but in Europe: 

"There are basically two natural deserts in Europe. One is in the Andalusia region of Spain, but it is almost in Africa, close to Morocco. The other recognised natural desert in Europe is Pobiti Kamani. There are about 15 theories about the origin of the rock formations. It's undisputed that there was a sea here, because tourists walk on very fine sea sand, a remnant of the sea millions of years ago. In the structure of the columns there are also fossilised marine micro-organisms, such as barnacles, shells, snails...".


The cylindrical columns look like part of an ancient architectural ensemble. One bold theory is that they are man-made, deliberately tilted to prevent water from collecting in the crevices, making them resistant to erosion and earthquakes. According to another theory, the groups of stone pillars were ancient shrines, similar to Stonehenge. While the validity of these theories is still debated, it is certain that the area has been inhabited since very ancient times, as evidenced by finds of tools and household items dating from the Mesolithic period (c. 8,000 - 2,000 BC)".                                 


Legends of petrified giants and tragic love drift around these fantastic formations. As we wander through the stone desert, we come across a hollow pillar lying on the ground. This is the so-called "Stone of Divine Love". At the height of summer, when the sun is at its peak, its rays pass through the hollow and create a stunning heart-shaped pattern.

Pobiti Kamani is said to be a highly energetic area where wishes come true. To this end, a 'Circle of Wishes' has been created in the museum. Visitors enter the circle of stones, make a wish and, according to the many thank you letters left behind, their wishes are granted. In addition, childless women embrace a special column in the hope of becoming mothers. But that's not all!


"Between one of the smaller groups of stones, called "Quarry West", flows healing water that cures kidney stones. 28 years ago I had a severe kidney crisis and within 5 days I passed 2 stones from this water," Stylian Markov told Radio Bulgaria. - In the central group where I work, next to the columns, there are large stone slabs on which you can lie in the summer, when they are well heated by the sun - the feeling is very pleasant. 

Some time ago I had a pain in my chest - a kind of neuralgia. I was advised to lie on one of these slabs. After two sessions of 30 minutes each in the evening, when they had been collecting the sun's heat all day and were literally radiating heat like stoves, the pain disappeared".

Many people come to sit among the thousands of years old giants and meditate. And on the eve of 19 August, the followers of Peter Dunov gather in the mystical stone forest to welcome the solar New Year with the dance of Paneurhythmy, as we learn from Stylian Markov.

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